4 Point System In Textile

The quality of a finished item in the apparel industry mostly depends on the quality of fabric when it is collected as a roll from mills. Even it occupies 60 – 70 percent of total garments cost. Apparel industry should take some defensive actions to ensure the quality fabric is only being used in their items and set up fabric inspection department with modern equipment and skilled manpower.

4 points system: It is widely used in textiles. It is simple and easy to understand. Inspection is done about 10% of the product in the shipment. This system is approved by AAMA (American Apparel. In the textile industry, Finish fabric inspect by the Quality Control Department before delivery to the garments unit. In most cases 'Four Point System' is widely used for fabric inspection which is an American Standard.

AIM: Fabric Mills and garments industry, both parties quality team should give their highest effort to erase any unexpected circumstances. Even the most outstanding/excellence manufacturing methods cannot compensate for defective materials.

* Garments producer: Have to inspect minimum 10% per color or more of any consignment when they got and assess them based on a four-point system. By this process, they can minimize fabric related quality troubles before it moved to production.

* Fabric Mill: Have to inspect 100% of finished goods; defects must be recorded on each roll.

Usually, four methods may be followed for fabric inspection process.

2) Dallas system.

4) 10 point system

But, above all 4 point system is most popular and broadly used as it is very simple to applicable, educate and learn. Let’s find a tiny description of 4 point inspection system below.

To use this system someone has to know the following procedure:

1) Vast idea on nature of fabric defects (how an error looks and its appearance)

3) Criteria for giving penalty points based on defects and defect length.

4) Calculation method of total penalty points for total defects found in a fabric roll or consignment.

Four Point System
Most of the apparel industry prefer Four Point rating system for determining fabric quality, and it is certified by the American Society for Quality Control (ASQC) as well as the American Apparel Manufacturers (AAMA).

The 4-Point System assigns 1, 2, 3 and 4 penalty points according to the size, quality, and significance of the defect. No more than 4 penalty points is assigned for any single flaw. A defect can be measured either length or width direction; the system remains the same. Only major errors are considered. No penalty points are assigned to minor defects.

Defect Classification

Whenever errors are recognized during fabric inspection under 4 points system and defect must be assigned a number of points depending on the severity or length.

(mm)
From 0 > 3″ length/width	1 point
75mm > 150mm
From 6.1″ > 9″ length/width	3 points
More than 230mm

Only major defects are taking into account. A serious defect is any defect that would cause a final garment to be considered a second.

* Upon the number and the size of the imperfections in the given yard, a maximum of 4 points can be given to one linear yard.

* Four points can be given for each linear yard when a defect is running continuously along the length of the fabric.

Holes and openings (the largest dimension)
2
4

Fabric shipments can be considered to be second quality and not acceptable upon the following total points. Fabric supplier is responsible for their fabric defect and to compensate for defects, 1 yard for every 8 points.

For below items classified for a point fabric, fabric supplier should compensate for all defective garment cutting panels or pieces.

average of 15 points per 100 linear yards

average of 20 points per 100 linear yards

average of 15 points per 100 linear yards

average of 0 points per piece

average of 0 points per 100 repeat

average of 15 points per 100 linear yards

average of 0 points per 100 repeat

Defect calculation: total liner yards + total defect points x 100

If the whole point is greater than 30 per 100 liner yards, no particular roll should be considered first quality.

Total defect points per 100 square yards of cloth are computed and therefore, the acceptance criteria are usually no more than 40 penalty points. Fabric rolls containing over 40 points are considered seconds.

The formula to compute penalty points per 100 square yards is given by= (Total points scored in the roll * 3600) / Fabric width in inches * Total yards inspected
Example: A fabric roll 150 yards long and 56“ wide contains following defects.

4 defects from 3“ to 6“ length 1 defect over 9“ length	6 x 1 2 X 3 1 X 4	8 points 4 points
Total defect points
Therefore,	= (28 X 3600)/(56 X 150)

Notable points of this system are describing below:

The process has no stipulation for the probability of minor defects.

The fabric is grade regardless of the end-product.

No more than 4 penalty points is appointed for any single defect.

4 Point System In Textile Science

Inspection Procedure under 4 points systems:
* Decide the quantity to inspect at least 10% of any consignment.

* Even small consignment has to be sure to choose at least one roll of each color way. If more than one role must be chosen, then select the additional roles in proportion to the total number of roles per color received.
* Pick up the rolls to inspect.
* Set the rolls on the inspection device.

* Fabric inspector should have an approved fabric submission form to compare with bulk lot.
* Measure the fabric width and cut off a 6-inch piece across the width of the end of the roll. Mark the right and left side of the strip. After inspecting every 50 yards please slow down the inspection process and use the strip to check for any shading problems. Also, ensure to check the end of the role.
* Inspect for visual flaws under clear lighting source with slow speed to find out the imperfections.

* Mark any imperfections by the colored sticker or chalk so that they can be easily found whenever needed.

* Make sure the roll exist the accurate yardage as declared by the supplier.
* Fabric item#, length, width, roll no, defect types and other ticket information must be recorded properly.

Please refer to below link for inspection format what are vastly using during fabric inspection.

Slide share link: http://www.slideshare.net/monirz/four-point-25332019

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The classic design featuring green stripe, red stripe, yellow stripe and indigo stripe on a white background

A Hudson's Bay point blanket is a type of woolblanket traded by the Hudson's Bay Company (HBC) in British North America (now Canada) and the United States during the 1700s and 1800s. The company is named for the Hudson Bay and the blankets were typically traded to First Nations in exchange for beaver pelts. The blankets continue to be sold by Canada's Hudson's Bay stores and have come to hold iconic status in Canada. In the United States they can be found at luxury department store and Hudson's Bay sister chain Lord & Taylor.

History[edit]

Poundmaker carrying a Hudson's Bay point blanket

In the North American fur trade, by 1700, wool blankets accounted for more than 60 per cent of traded goods.^[1] French fur-trader Germain Maugenest is thought to have advised the HBC to introduce point blankets.^[2]

Originally point blankets had a single stripe across each end, usually in blue or red. In the mid-1800s blankets began to be produced with a green stripe, red stripe, yellow stripe and indigo stripe on a white background; the four stripe colours were popular and easily produced using good colourfast dyes at that time.^[3] In 1798 a mill owner received a purchase order for '30 pair[s] of 3 points to be striped with four colors (red, blue, green, yellow) according to your judgement.'^[3] to be manufactured in Witney, Oxfordshire, a town famous for its woollen blankets since the Middle Ages.^[4]

Traditional capote made with a Hudson's Bay point blanket

From the early days of the fur trade, wool blankets were made into hooded coats called capotes by both natives and French Canadian voyageurs, which were well suited to Canada's cold winters.^[5]^{[unreliable source?]}

Point system[edit]

Points are short black lines woven into the selvage of the blanket along the edge just above the bottom set of stripes. About four inches in length (except in the case of half points, which are two inches), they indicate the finished overall size (area) of a blanket and allow a blanket's size to be easily determined even when folded. The point system was invented by French weavers in the mid-1700s since then, as now, blankets were shrunk as part of the manufacturing process. The word point derives from the French empointer, meaning 'to make threaded stitches on cloth.'

Over the centuries the sizes of blankets have shifted, particularly during the 1900s as beds became larger. Blankets of 2.5, 3, 3.5 and 4 point were most common during the fur trade era. Today Hudson's Bay blankets are commonly found in point sizes of 3.5 (twin bed), 4 (double), 6 (queen) and 8 (king).^[1]

The misconception persists that originally the points were an indication of the blanket price in beaver pelts or even its weight. Thickness and quality are the same blanket to blanket, and a larger blanket will naturally weigh more.^[1]

Current use[edit]

4 Point System In Textile Supply

Made in England from 100 percent wool, versions of the blanket are available at Hudson's Bay stores throughout Canada. Solid colours are available, as is the classic pattern featuring the green, red, yellow, and indigo stripes. Today the blankets are made in England by John Atkinson, a sub brand of A.W. Hainsworth & Sons Ltd.^[6]

Wools from Britain and New Zealand are used in the manufacture of blankets.^[1]

The official licensee allowed to import Hudson's Bay Blankets into the United States for commercial sale is Woolrich Inc. of Pennsylvania. Five U.S. retailers currently sell the blankets to consumers: Woolrich, Lord & Taylor (former sister chain to Hudson's Bay), L.L.Bean, Getz's Department Store in Marquette, Michigan and Johnson Woolen Mills.^[7]^{[failed verification]}

Collectability[edit]

HBC point blanket label since April 2017

Label for Canada's 150th Anniversary, applied to the special edition blankets

Genuine point blankets have become very collectible and could fetch prices up to thousands of dollars. The main determinants of value include age, size, colour, pattern rarity and condition. Particularly collectible point blankets are the Coronation blankets: the one produced for the 1953 coronation of Queen Elizabeth II brings approximately $600 if in mint condition while examples of the even rarer 1937 Coronation blanket have sold for as high as $1300.^{[citation needed]}

In 1890, HBC began adding labels to their blankets because point blankets of similar quality were being sold by HBC competitors from such manufacturers as Early's of Witney.^[8]

Harold Lee Tichenor, point blanket collector and consultant to Hudson's Bay Company, has written two books on point blankets and their collectibility.^[9]^[10]

In April 2017, HBC updated the label, rotating it from portrait to landscape, making it easy to display English and French on either side of the crest, which has been enhanced with red on the flag. To celebrate Canada's 150th Anniversary in 2017, HBC added an additional label to the blanket: a picture of voyageurs in a canoe, with CANADA printed at the top.

Name in First Nations languages[edit]

4 Point System In Textile Industry

The Hudson's Bay blanket was called by different names in First Nations languages. Some examples are:

Baahlaads gyaa'adaay, Haida language^[11]
p̓a̱lx̱a̱lasǥa̱m, Kwak'wala^[12]
ʔa·q̓unaq, Kutenai language^[13]

References[edit]

4 Point System In Textile Engineering

^ ^a^b^c^d'Hudson's Bay Point Blanket'. HBC. Retrieved 2 March 2018.
^'Germain Maugenest'. Dictionary of Canadian Biography. Retrieved 2 March 2018.
^ ^a^bGreenbaum, Hilary (September 19, 2011). 'Who Made That Hudson's Bay Blanket?'. The New York Times. Retrieved September 29, 2011.
^Clare Sumner. 'history Witney Blanket Story – A brief history of the wool trade in the Witney area'. Witneyblanketstory.org.uk. Retrieved 13 November 2011.
^'the native canadian'. Nativecanadian.ca. Retrieved October 19, 2013.
^'History of the Blanket | England's Finest Blankets'. February 26, 2018.
^'The Hudson's Bay Company Point Blanket: FAQs'. Hbc.com. November 26, 2012. Retrieved January 11, 2016.
^'Point blankets and North America'. Genuine Witney Blanket Story. Retrieved 2 March 2018.
^https://www.amazon.com/Blanket-Illustrated-History-Hudsons-Point/dp/1895892201/ref=sr_1_1?qid=1557544251&refinements=p_27%3AHarold+Tichenor&s=books&sr=1-1&text=Harold+Tichenor
^https://www.amazon.com/Collectors-Blankets-Hudsons-Company-Companies/dp/0973145900/ref=sr_1_5?qid=1557544303&refinements=p_27%3AHarold+Tichenor&s=books&sr=1-5&text=Harold+Tichenor
^'FirstVoices: Hlg̱aagilda X̱aayda Kil words'. Retrieved July 10, 2012.
^'FirstVoices: Kwak̓wala words'. Retrieved July 10, 2012.
^'FirstVoices: Ktunaxa words'. Retrieved July 10, 2012.

External links[edit]

Wikimedia Commons has media related to Hudson's Bay point blanket.

4 Point System Textile Learner

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